Walking here from the train, it’s impossible to ignore the hipster–industrial vibe of this area in Greenpoint: a vintage thrift store; a record shop; a very modern-Zen dashi specialty store (that’s worth stopping by!)

Around the corner of a building that’s otherwise nondescript, a large neon sign shouts out “RULE OF THIRDS” with an arrow pointing to a cozy doorway recessed into the wall of white bricks. Navigate through a bright (for brunch!) courtyard with outdoor seating areas clad in wood and cloth and you’ll find the entrance to the restaurant’s indoor section, a very roomy Scandinavian-styled space.

They’re known for their brunch and if you only come here once, that’s when you should aim to visit. I had the Teishoku breakfast set (traditional and unique flavours) and shared the Insta-iconic souffle pancake (eat it while it’s warm!) I’ve heard the sandos are really great, too, and they did look great coming out of the kitchen.

For dinner, they have a good selection of sake and cocktails (“Between The Trees” comes out in a cute wooden box with an herb twig). The food is executed well and with no surprises. Maybe lacking in creativity, but at least it makes the menu easy to read: pick what stands out from the appy sections (karaage, siklen tofu, skate wing) and share some of the entrées (nikujaga, tonkotsu).